How to sow Lithops seeds
Today's small experience sharing: How to sow Lithops seeds and the planting and maintenance of succulent Lithops, and some small knowledge about flower raising. Let's take a look together below.
The planting and maintenance technology of succulent Lithops
(1) The process of Lithops sowing
Lithops is a variety that is loved by many succulent lovers, and it is also favored and pursued by enthusiasts. However, due to the complexity and delicacy of Lithops sowing and seedling management, it has always been a difficult problem and a difficult-to-master process for enthusiasts.
1. The selection of seedling pots
The pot for sowing Lithops is best made of purple sand, because purple sand has the most ideal permeability and breathability. However, due to the variety of sowing varieties, I chose a plastic square pot with a size of 7cm x 7cm x 8cm. Each seedling pot can sow at least 100 seeds.
2. Sowing planting materials
The planting material for Lithops sowing is a key link, which involves the future seedling management and maintenance issues. If it is not used properly, it will lead to a low germination rate and premature death of seedlings. Summarizing my past lessons, I used three parts of pot bottom stone, middle layer soil and surface layer soil for sowing this year.
Pot bottom stone: Select large particles of orchid stone as the pot bottom stone, mainly to strengthen the permeability and breathability, 1-2cm thick.
Middle layer soil: This part of the soil accounts for more than 70% of the soil in the pot, so it is the foundation and source of nutrition for future plant growth. I use Akadama soil, orchid stone, granular culture soil plus a small amount of rice husk charcoal. Akadama soil, orchid stone and granular culture soil should all be sieved to remove the dust and debris inside, so that the particle diameter of the above three planting materials is above 1mm and below 5mm. These three planting materials can be mixed in a ratio of 1:1:1 to ensure looseness and breathability, and then a small amount of rice husk charcoal is added to increase nutrition.
Photos of Akadama soil, orchid stone and granular culture soil;
Surface layer soil: The surface layer soil is the seedbed for seed development and growth, so it needs to be carefully selected. I choose sieved 1mm diameter green stone particles, Akadama soil and shochu soil mixed as the surface layer soil, with a thickness of about 1cm.
3. Disinfection of planting materials
(1) Why disinfect planting materials? The disinfection of planting materials is to prevent the growth of fungi and pests, and to ensure the safe and healthy growth of seedlings. The main disease during seedling period is damping-off, which is caused by fungi. Because fungi are saprophytic fungi, it is necessary to carry out necessary disinfection.
(2) Preparation of potassium permanganate solution. In the past, I used a microwave oven to disinfect planting materials, with high fire for 10-15 minutes. However, due to the unpleasant smell of microwave disinfection and the limitation of the amount of planting materials for each disinfection, this year I used potassium permanganate solution for disinfection of planting materials. Potassium permanganate is a strong oxidant, which can quickly complete the disinfection of planting materials. When preparing potassium permanganate solution, hot water should be used to dissolve it, and the concentration should be between 0.3% and 0.5%, that is, when the dark purple water solution is clear to the bottom, it basically meets the requirements.
(3) Specific steps and methods of disinfection. After the above planting materials are prepared and filled into the pot, immerse the flower pot in the potassium permanganate solution, and there is no special requirement for the time, usually 10 minutes. After the immersion is completed, take out the pot and dry it in the sun.
4. Sowing seeds
Since the seeds of Lithops are very small, sowing is an extremely delicate and patient work. The main process is as follows:
(1) Sowing time. The best temperature for sowing Lithops is 15-25℃, so it is necessary to choose the time for sowing according to the local climate conditions.
(2) Sterilization. After the surface soil is flattened and compacted, spray with broad-spectrum fungicides, such as carbendazim, methyl thiophanate, mancozeb, chlorothalonil, etc.
(3) Sowing. The seeds of Lithops are small, and it is almost impossible to complete the sowing by dot sowing, so it is usually carried out by broadcasting. Fold a white paper with a hard texture to form a paper trough. Carefully place the seeds on the white paper, and then gently tap the back of the white paper, so that the seeds can be evenly and smoothly flowed into the area you want to sow. It should be noted that the tilt angle of the white paper and the strength of the tapping are the key to the sowing of seeds, which needs continuous exploration and practice to master.
(4) Surface covering soil. There are different practices for whether the surface needs to be covered with soil after sowing. I did not cover the surface soil after sowing.
(5) Sterilization. Spray the surface of the pot with broad-spectrum fungicides again, which can make the seeds better combined with the surface soil, and also disinfect the seeds.
(6) Marking. Insert a label on the seedling pot according to the sequence of the seeds to avoid confusion and facilitate future management.
5. Placement of seedling pots
After sowing, it is usually necessary to cover the pot mouth with glass or plastic cloth, cling film and other things to keep a certain humidity in the local environment, so that the seeds can sprout as soon as possible. It is difficult to control the time of ventilation and humidity reduction, so this year I chose a large plastic box to create a relatively large environment. The advantage of this is that the space environment is larger, which can effectively prevent the death of seedlings caused by water droplets on the film covering. Place the seedling pots in order in the large plastic box, cover the lid, and place it in a scattered light place, using scattered sunlight as the light source.
(2) Some problems in the maintenance of Lithops
1. The growth rate of Lithops is not slow
About the growth of Lithops, many flower books and magazines all think that it grows slowly and is complex to manage. Therefore, although the unique shape of Lithops has attracted many enthusiasts, due to this misunderstanding, few people ask about it, and there are few cultivators in China. In fact, many flower books and magazines are mutually copied, and it is rare to have firsthand information from personal practice, just copying from others.
Lithops usually carry out sowing propagation in March-April, and the seedlings come out in 6-15 days after sowing. Because the seeds are small, the seedlings are also thin and weak after germination. The small plants just germinated do grow slowly, so the maintenance should be careful and careful, especially to prevent the invasion of harmful fungi.
After a month, the plants begin to grow, but the nutrients in the seeds themselves have basically been exhausted, and the function of self-nourishment has not been fully formed, so it is necessary to supplement the nutrients needed for growth in time, and give light (3000-10000 lux), and at the same time, prevent the excessive accumulation of anthocyanin in the seedlings due to excessive light, which inhibits growth.
The growth of Lithops seedlings in the later stage depends on the maintenance between 50-80 days. The method of supplementing nutrients is to use a dilute compound fertilizer with the same ratio of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium for spraying. This can not only make the leaf surface absorb, but also provide a small amount of fertilizer solution for the root absorption. The concentration is controlled below 1.5%. During this period, the temperature is suitable to be controlled between 15-30℃. After 3 months, the small plants can reach the size of mung beans. But at this time, the weather is getting hot, pay attention to ventilation and cooling, make the matrix dry, and prevent high temperature and high humidity from causing rotten seedlings and high temperature leading to dormancy.
After the autumn, the weather gradually cools down, and the seedlings can be divided and planted with a spacing of 2cm. After two weeks of seedling recovery, the seedlings have grown bigger, and seedling maintenance should be carried out, spraying thin liquid fertilizer every 10 days. By the end of October, increase the light intensity and light time, the plant body can reach 12mm. After December, the weather gradually cools down, and full light and heat preservation and humidification measures should be taken to prevent the matrix from being too wet or dry. Continue to maintain until the beginning of the second year, the cotyledons will burst, and the new leaves (true leaves) will begin to grow.
By mid-April, the plant body can reach 20mm. From the time of sowing, the seeds can be sold as commercial seedlings after 13-14 months. If continued cultivation, change the culture soil once every half year, and at 24 months of age, the plant body can reach more than 35mm, becoming a standard plant, but it cannot bloom and there is little increase in the number of heads.
In addition, it is observed that the individual varieties with green or purple-black epidermis grow faster than red-purple varieties.
2. About the dormancy of Lithops
We find that the decisive factor for the dormancy of Lithops is temperature, followed by light. To break the dormancy of Lithops, we must start from this aspect. Practice has shown that as long as the temperature is maintained between 15-28℃ from late spring to early autumn, the one-year-old seedlings are less fertilized with nitrogen fertilizer, frequently fertilized with dilute phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, and the cultivation matrix is not too dry or wet. The shading is 70%, and the light time is shortened to 5-7 hours per day, and a day and night temperature difference of 8-10℃ is formed, so that Lithops can grow throughout the year. It is just that the growth rate is fast and slow due to seasonal changes. In temperate regions, the above method can be used to break the summer dormancy. In the north, most indoor heating facilities are available in winter. As long as Lithops is placed in an environment above 10-15℃, given normal sunlight, and 20-40 watts of light source is used to extend the light time, the winter dormancy can be broken. Relatively speaking, winter dormancy is easier to break than summer dormancy.
3. Methods to speed up the growth rate of Lithops
Breaking the winter and summer dormancy of Lithops will undoubtedly promote its growth. In the condition of temperature control, in the north, after winter, it can be placed on a sunny windowsill or a closed balcony with heating, and Lithops can first burst old leaves before the Spring Festival. At this time, appropriate fertilization should be carried out, and the amount of watering should be slightly increased. Do not shade, because when sunlight passes through glass, ultraviolet light has been discounted. Loosen the cultivation matrix every half month, do not hurt the roots, and adhere to the beginning of April, the new leaves will grow to the size of old leaves. At this time, the old leaves and new leaves are superimposed in a cross shape, and the old leaves are not wrinkled, which does not affect the appreciation during the Spring Festival. Of course, the method of temperature rise or drop can also be used to make the old leaves burst. In the north, heating in residential buildings stops in mid-March, and the external temperature rises to about 4-15℃. The room temperature is 10-21℃. At this time, less water should be poured to make the concentration of new leaf body fluid increase. If the temperature is slightly lowered and maintained at about 7-18℃, a clear temperature difference can be formed with the change of day and night, and the effect is better. By early May, when the external temperature rises to 16-25℃, the plants will have new leaves burst old leaves again, and there is a possibility of increasing the number of heads. By mid-June, the plants already have 3 pairs of leaves, the lowest layer of leaves are wrinkled, but still in a cross shape. Analyzing the above situation, the fundamental factor is still temperature. From the coolness in October to the heating in November, it promotes the first burst in January, and the temperature conditions in the following months make the new leaves grow and mature. After stopping heating in March, it enters a cooling state again. After the temperature rises in late April, the plants grow vigorously again, new leaves are produced, and the second burst is promoted. In fact, it is to make the plants experience two winters and two summers in about 270 days from October of the previous year to May of the next year under human conditions, and complete the two-year growth and development process in nature. This method speeds up the enlargement of individual Lithops or the increase of the number of heads, but whether it can bloom and bear fruit early needs further observation and research.
4. The substrate problem of potted Lithops
Lithops, like other succulent plants, is still cultivated mainly with soil as the main cultivation substrate. Generally grasp two points: loose and breathable, rich in organic matter. The author is accustomed to using commercial clivia soil mixed with 1/3 perlite or vermiculite as the cultivation substrate, and adding a small amount of superphosphate. In a pot with a depth of 15-20cm, pad 3-4cm thick broken pot pieces, add 2cm fine brick particles, put some decomposed sheep manure or oil cake, and then put the prepared culture soil to 1cm from the edge of the pot, slightly compact, insert holes with bamboo sticks, carefully put the Lithops seedlings' roots into it, press from all sides to bury to the junction of the root and stem, and some plants will shake slightly, which is not a problem. When preparing the culture soil and transplanting, it is necessary to control the water content, the best state is that it can be pinched into a ball with your hand and scattered when you let go. Do not water after transplanting, put it in a place with weak light and warmth (15-20℃) for a week, and then drip a little water around the plant after half a month, and normal management can be carried out after half a month. With this method of transplanting, whether it is an old plant changing pots and soil, or a seedling pot brought from afar, the survival rate is 100%, and none of them is damaged. [Jishan Hua Yao]
5. The problem of fertilizer application in Lithops cultivation
In recent years, the practice has shown that the base fertilizer of Lithops is the best with decomposed sheep manure. Because after decomposition, it is cool and rich in potassium, pH is about 7.2, and then mixed with oil cake, which supplements trace elements and nitrogen fertilizer, and the nutrients are comprehensive, not dry and violent. Adding superphosphate, also supplementing phosphorus and calcium, and make it exert in a slightly alkaline matrix. Therefore, the roots of the plant grow well, the leaves are full and glossy, the number of splitting heads increases, and it is easy to bloom and bear fruit. The root fertilization is mainly based on multi-element compound fertilizer, and organic fertilizer extract can also be used. Adult plants should use less nitrogen fertilizer with high nitrogen content or inorganic salt concentration. When applying root fertilizer, prevent the fertilizer solution from contaminating the plant body. Foliar spray fertilizer can use the common nutrient solution for ornamental leaf flowers. When the new leaves burst open and the old leaves, apply urea directly, 6-8 grains for large plants, 3-4 grains for small plants, to promote the rapid growth of new leaves. But prevent water accumulation at the new crack from causing plant decay. Fertilization and watering should be carried out at the same time, try to apply thin fertilizer frequently, do not be impatient, so as not to cause fertilizer damage.
6. Cultivation and management of introduced plants
Introducing Lithops usually can only introduce seedlings, and seeds can only be introduced in individual cases, and the introduction of seeds is less guaranteed in variety and quality. The market often only sells seedlings, and there are few mature plants for sale. Therefore, most of the introducers can only buy seedling plants by mail. The individuals of Lithops seedlings are small, and usually undergo drying treatment before mailing. They are wrapped with soft and breathable paper and mailed to the introducers after 5-8 days or more. Although the plant body will not suffer much loss, the roots are very dry, and some plants' roots will break when touched, leaving only the fleshy leaves or the connection between the root and the stem. It is a pity to discard it, and cultivation worries about the survival problem.
In fact, Lithops is very drought-resistant in its native place, and sometimes the root can be without water for more than half a year. The more lignified root hairs will shrink, and only rely on the water returned by the leaves to save the roots. But as long as it is not absolutely dehydrated, when the environmental conditions improve, the old roots will absorb water and expand and then grow new root hairs. If the old roots break and fall, and the plant body does not decay, new roots will grow from the remaining part of the main root. Based on these situations, the introduced Lithops seedlings should not be planted in a hurry. First, dip the roots in water, place them on the damp soil in a mild environment for 8-12 hours, and then plant them with the above transplanting method, without the need for rooting agent treatment. After 5-7 days, new roots will grow, pay attention to the amount of watering, and normal management can be carried out after half a month, and fertilizer can be applied to promote growth after 20 days. Some plants have no roots at all, but as long as the plant body does not decay, they can also be discarded. Use