How to graft a cactus
Summary: This article explains how to graft a cactus and provides three tips for successful grafting in the field of green plants and flowers. Let's take a look!
After entering April, except for a few provinces, the temperature in most parts of the country is above 15°C. This climate is very suitable for grafting the stock of cacti and the scion of zygocactus. However, good external conditions alone are not enough, and it is also necessary to pay attention to the necessary grafting skills to ensure the rapid healing and survival of the grafted scion. To ensure the survival of the graft, it is necessary to do a good job in the pre-grafting preparation, the key points to be mastered during the grafting, and the management after the grafting. The following three issues are briefly described.
1. Pre-grafting preparation
Before grafting, the cactus stock must have been rooted from cuttings in the previous year. The selection of cacti is important, and cold-resistant cacti should be chosen. Trichocereus (also known as the celestial pole) is not suitable due to its intolerance to cold. Different varieties of cacti also have different cold resistance. Choose the variety that does not show shrinkage on the outer epidermis in winter. This indicates good cold resistance and strong resilience. It is also necessary to choose the thick and flat stems that have grown in the current year, as very old or very young ones are not suitable. If there are no rooted cactus stems from the previous year, it is also possible to cut and graft at the same time. However, the survival time after grafting will be extended.
In order to increase the survival rate, the scion should be selected as a single node with a single leaf at this time. This is because the cactus stem first needs to solve the problem of root formation before it can provide nutrients for the scion. At this time, the nutritional supply of the scion can only rely on the internal sap reserves of the stem. Therefore, compared with rooted cacti that are cut and grafted, the survival time of the graft is longer, the success rate of the graft is lower, and the scion can only be selected as a single node with a single leaf. For rooted cacti, the scion can have multiple nodes, each with multiple leaves, and the extent to which this is done depends on the size of the stock. Multiple nodes and leaves are beneficial for rapid shaping. Generally speaking, it is better to use rooted cacti as the stock for grafting.
2. Key points to note during grafting
The key points to note during grafting can be summarized into three points.
(a) Locate the cambium layer of the stock. The basic principle of grafting is to heal the stock and scion into one through the combination of the cambium layers. Cacti are succulent plants, and the cambium layer is not obvious, existing in the vascular bundles. Therefore, only by determining the arrangement of the vascular bundles can the cambium layer be found. Cut the cactus horizontally with a small knife, and the outermost layer of the section with deep green is the epidermis, the inner layer of tender green arranged in circles is the vascular bundle, and the middle light green part is the pith. For successful grafting, the vascular bundles of the stock and scion must be closely aligned.
(b) Select the scion: The scion should be selected from branches that are neither old nor tender. If the stem is large and thick, it indicates strong vitality, and the scion can be selected with multiple nodes and leaves, which is beneficial for rapid shaping. After selecting the scion, use a sterilized blade to cut obliquely from the lower end of a node on both sides to form a duck-bill shape, with a cutting length of about 3 centimeters. The outer skin of the central convex main vein should also be removed. In addition, a commonly overlooked point is that the top section of the main vein is uneven, and a small amount should be cut off and trimmed flat to ensure a secure fit when inserting, which accelerates healing and ensures successful grafting.
(c) Perform the grafting: Cut the stock stem into a V-shaped slit. The principle is to use the main vascular bundle as much as possible and not let it dry. The requirement for cutting the stock slit is to make a longitudinal cut at the top of the stock, with the width and depth slightly larger and deeper than the scion's cut surface. Then insert the scion. Since both the stock and scion have sticky liquid, the scion can easily move during grafting. A relatively effective method is to use two cactus spines to secure it. To make it even more reliable, after the spines are fixed, drop candle wax around the joint for complete sealing. The benefits of this method are obvious. It prevents the joint from drying out and prevents bacterial infection, and it doesn't matter if water accidentally splashes on the joint.
3. Management after grafting
After grafting, the grafting seedlings should be placed in a shaded and ventilated area. After watering well in the first few days after grafting, no watering should be done for at least half a month. If the pot has good quality and poor ventilation, the watering time can be extended. The overall principle is to consider watering a little only after the graft has taken. Sometimes, sprinkling can be used as an alternative. Cacti will never die of drought, only of overwatering. This is very important because frequent watering after grafting leads to a decrease in the viscosity of the cactus interior. In other words, the proportion of internal water will increase, which generally causes the joint to rot, making it difficult for the stock and scion to heal, resulting in a significantly reduced survival rate. It can be said that nine out of ten will die from overwatering, and I have learned from experience. In addition, in April, the internal physiological activities of the cactus stock have already started to germinate, and sometimes young stems may appear in different parts of the stock. These should be removed immediately, or they will compete with the scion for nutrients, inhibiting the survival and growth of the scion.
Following the above requirements, the graft usually takes about half a month to survive. You can also make a visual assessment. After half a month, if the scion is standing up straight, looks spirited, and feels firm to the touch, it is likely to have survived. If the grafting seedlings are managed well, they can bloom a small amount in the same year, and by the second year, they will stand gracefully in front of you for your enjoyment.
This article shares detailed information on how to graft a cactus and teaches you three tips for successful grafting, hoping to bring you help!