What are the new technologies in grape cultivation
Today's lifestyle tip brings you the new technologies in grape cultivation and the content of grape cultivation techniques and management of green plants and flowers, which will surely be of help to you. Let's learn about it together!
When to plant grape seedlings? How to plant? The grape cultivation team at Daily Learning Farm will tell you now! Also, the preparations before planting, precautions during planting, and comprehensive management of pruning, fertilization, water, and disease and pest control in the first year of seedling growth will help everyone better understand these daily management tasks, achieve early fruiting and high yield, and hope it will be helpful to both new and experienced grape growers.
When to plant grape seedlings?
Grape seedlings require high temperatures, climate, and rainfall during growth, with a minimum required temperature of about 14 degrees. Therefore, planting is generally done in spring. If planting grape seedlings in spring, March is a good time, and a shelter should be set up for outdoor planting to protect against wind and rain. In autumn, the planting time is from mid-July to August, which is longer than in spring. Grape seedlings planted in autumn bear fruit earlier than those in spring, usually bearing fruit in the second year. Generally, it takes 2-3 years for grape seedlings to bear fruit, and there are some variations among different varieties.
In recent years, research has found that if grape seedlings are larger, autumn planting is more effective than spring planting. The temperature change in autumn is more stable and less variable than in spring, and the humidity of the air and soil is higher. Compared to spring, autumn is more conducive to wound healing and new root growth. Therefore, the survival rate of grape seedlings planted in autumn can normally reach over 90%, much higher than that of spring planting.
Autumn planting can shorten the period of high yield. Grape seedlings planted in autumn do not need to acclimate, and the development time of germination is about one month earlier than in spring. Some grape seedlings can bloom and bear fruit in the same year, and the next year they can mature and bear fruit. This is much faster than spring planting, where it takes two years for seedlings to bloom and bear fruit, and only a few plants bear fruit in the second year, usually reaching the fruiting period in the third year, one year later than autumn planting.
Autumn planting of grape seedlings can also avoid the situation of competing with other crops for fertilizer and water. Autumn planting of grape seedlings is done after other crops have been watered and fertilized. This can effectively prevent other crops from competing with grape seedlings for nutrients, which is beneficial for meeting the nutritional needs of autumn planted grape seedlings and ensuring their growth quality.
In the Huanghai region of China, if the planting period of grape seedlings begins in the second half of October, it ends at the end of November, with a period of about 50 days, which is about 10 days longer than the spring planting period. This can help extend the acclimatization period of grape seedlings and indirectly advance the planting by one year. Grape seedlings are easily damaged by bleeding in spring because the temperature is higher, and compared to autumn, the acclimatization period is one year later, so autumn planting is better.
Seedling Planting Method
Before planting, the seedlings should be properly pruned, removing dead stakes and leaving 3 or more tender buds. Overlong lateral roots should be shortened, and the root system should be left about 15 centimeters long. After pruning, the seedlings should be soaked in clean water for a day, or soaked in a liquid mixture of decomposed manure and water. The purpose of soaking is to replenish moisture to the seedlings that have been without water for a long time during transportation, allowing them to adapt to the environment faster and improve the survival rate of the grapes.
When planting, dig shallow holes every 0.5 meters, place the prepared seedlings with the roots dipped or soaked into the planting holes, spread the roots around on a circular soil pile, do not circle the roots, make sure the roots are tightly connected with the soil, then fill the soil around, tamping the soil around the roots while filling. Cover the grafting seedlings with soil 1 centimeter below the grafting joint, and the cutting seedlings should be level with the surface of the planting trench. After planting, water thoroughly once, then cover the soil after the water has渗透, leaving no roots exposed. Do not put farmyard manure or chemical fertilizers in the planting holes to prevent burning the seedlings.
After planting, use black plastic mulch to keep the soil fertilized, prevent water loss, reduce weed growth, maintain ground temperature, and accelerate grape growth. In dry areas, after planting, cover the top of the seedlings with sandy loam soil to a height of 2 centimeters above the top bud eye to prevent the bud eye from drying out. Water again after 5 days to ensure the survival of the seedlings. It is best to use plastic mulch, which is beneficial for raising ground temperature and moisture retention, promoting root growth.
After the grape seedlings emerge, top dressing should begin. In the seedling stage, nitrogen fertilizer should be applied to promote root growth, repair root damage, and shape the plant. After fertilizing, water promptly to keep the soil moist. Generally, in the later growth stage, the amount and frequency of watering should be reduced, and attention should be paid to drainage during the rainy season.
Grape seedlings are very susceptible to black spot and white rot diseases, and later affected by downy mildew. Before germination, alternate spraying with lime sulfur solution 6-7 times. When the seedlings have grown to 8 leaves, spray once with bactericide. It is also important to clean the orchard regularly, cut off diseased branches and fruits, and reduce disease occurrence.
Management Techniques for Seedlings in the First Year After Planting
Pruning and Branching
After planting, the removal of suckers, selection of branches, and topping of the seedlings are very important. When the bud eyes germinate, remove the suckers below the grafting joint in time to prevent them from consuming nutrients and affecting the germination of the scion bud eyes and the growth of new shoots. When the height reaches 20 centimeters, thin out excess branches according to planting density and shaping requirements, remove weak branches, and concentrate nutrients on the remaining branches to promote plant growth.
Top Dressing
The most critical aspect of early high-yield cultivation techniques is fertilizer and water management. When the new shoots grow to about 30-35 centimeters, dig a circular trench 30 centimeters away from the seedlings and apply nitrogen fertilizer (urea) at a rate of 15-20 kilograms per 667 square meters. Water immediately after fertilizing, and loosen the soil after watering. Since the root system of newly planted seedlings is small, the amount of nutrients absorbed is also small, so it is necessary to apply fertilizers frequently but in small amounts, 2-3 times a year, with intervals of 20-30 days. Apply nitrogen fertilizer in the early stage and phosphorus and potassium fertilizers in the later stage. As the seedlings grow, the trench should be moved outward appropriately, and the amount can be increased slightly based on the growth of the seedlings. After top dressing, water promptly, loosen the soil, and control weeds.
Training
When the seedlings have grown to 10-12 leaves (when tendrils start to appear), start binding the branches and continue binding as they grow.
Pinching
When the seedlings reach 1 meter in height, pinch the main shoot and treat the lateral shoots. First, remove the lateral shoots below 30 centimeters from the ground, and leave 1-2 leaves on the upper lateral shoots for repeated pinching. Strong lateral shoots can be left with 4-5 leaves for repeated pinching. When the main shoot reaches 1.5 meters in length, pinch again. In Beijing, with good management, the seedlings can reach about 2 meters by the beginning of September, and the last main shoot pinch should be done. Multiple pinching can promote thicker stems, lignification of branches, and flower bud differentiation.
Disease and Pest Control
The main pests are green stink bugs, grape mites (eriophyid mites), and golden beetles; the main diseases include black spot, white rot, anthracnose, powdery mildew, and downy mildew. It is necessary to use agents appropriately according to the occurrence patterns of diseases and pests and to use various chemical agents scientifically.
Winter Pruning
In winter pruning, cut at a fully matured diameter of about 0.8-1 centimeters (determined by shaping requirements). When the lateral shoots on the main shoot are about 0.5 centimeters thick, leave 1-2 buds for shortening as the fruiting branches for the next year. Remove fallen leaves, dead branches, and weeds, and cut off branches with pathogens during winter pruning.
Burial for Frost Prevention
In cold winter areas, it is necessary to bury the soil for frost prevention, with the thickness of the covering soil varying by region. In Beijing, it should not be less than 20-25 centimeters, and sufficient water should be applied for frost prevention.
This article shares the full content of the new technologies in grape cultivation and grape cultivation techniques and management, hoping to be helpful to green plant enthusiasts!